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MAKERS OF FINE SHOES | HANDCRAFTED | LEGACY & HONOUR

Footwear Style

Guide

An insight from behind the scenes of Wilfred Frazer’s vast collection of styles, such as the one held in our U.K. flagship shop on Jermyn Street, London.

A Step in the Right Direction

With the growth of the rubber sole, today, our collection of fine footwear at Wilfred Frazer covers an almost unending array of scenarios. From the fine, traditional Leather Sole, channeled for Hand Grade finesse to the over-sized Cleated Rubber sole, there is a sole for almost every occasion.

New technologies continue to become available, enabling us to further develop our shoes & boots, blending new soles with our tried and tested Goodyear welted construction method, to suit our customers’ everyday needs with comfort, durability, repairability, and style at its core.

Derby Boots

An iconic footwear whose humble beginnings transcend history to a sophisticated allure. The incredibly versatile suave style boots are fully lined, high leg and stand the test of time.

 

Chelsea Boots

The ankle high elastic sided boot originating from the early Victorian era reigns the hearts of those who live life avant-garde style. The classic design at the epitome of elegance and craftsmanship blends into the intricacies of urban life as it does with the soulfulness of the countryside.

Elastic Side boot for Queen Victoria, Paddock boot for the equestrians, Chelsea boot for the ‘Chelsea set’ mark the milestones along the journey of this iconic footwear. The ankle high boot with elasticated side panels slips on and off effortlessly adapting seamlessly into the myriad facets of life.

Meticulous care and precise techniques during Clicking, Cutting and blocking before lasting is what ensures a foudroyant masterpiece.

Chukka Boots

Rooted in the spirit of minimalism, the Chukka boot (or Desert boot) completes the picture perfectness of the sartorial splendour. The ankle high boot, constructed with the outer and inner quarters, the vamp and the hallmark two or three eyelets, echo military precision and sportive spirits – the origins of the Chukka.

Chukka, Chukkers or Chukkar, the origin of the name is a matter of debate. A modest yet mighty classic, these ankle-length boots first appeared as a hybrid between ankle boots and riding boots during the 1920s. The boot that’s not really a boot can be dressed up or dressed down making it perfect for any occasion.

Oxfords

Balmoral in the Americas, Richelieu in France or simply Oxfords everywhere – these timeless classics inspired by the Oxonian side slit half boots, a couple of centuries ago embrace elegance, sophisticated craftsmanship and versatility – A bold statement with every step.

Across the pond lies another version of Oxfords origins, suggesting they came from Balmoral Castle and were invented by Prince Albert. The prince wore laced-up boots for hunting and walking, which is where it is thought the laced-up Oxford shoe came from. 

Despite the debatable origin, the peerless classics adorn distinctly magnificent features,

  • Closed lacing, where the Quarters and eyelet tabs are stitched beneath the Vamp, creating a sleek and minimalist appearance.
  • The tongue, separately stitched beneath the Quarters and the Vamp

The repertoire include Whole Cut, Plain Toe, Cap Toe, Brogues(Full, Semi, Quarter, Wingtip), Balmoral or Bals, Spectator, Saddle, Adelaide

Derbys

Smart casual or vintage chic, versatile and refined elegance of these timeless footwear evoke a sense of nostalgia while living the moment in vogue.

An amelioration of the Oxfords for those with higher instep, open laced shoes for the 14th Count of Derby or a precise solution for the soldiers of the Prussian army during the Napolean wars – theories of the Derby’s origin are as versatile as its pertinence.

Deep rooted in history akin to the Oxfords, Derbys or AKA Bluchers adorn distinctly different yet equally magnificent features,

  • Open lacing, where the inside and outer Quarters are stitched above and on either side of the Vamp, allowing more room for flexibility and creativity.
  • The tongue is part of the Vamp and not stitched separately.

The repertoire include Plain Toe, Cap Toe, Brogues(Longwing, Wingtip), Spectator, Saddle, Derby with split toe

Wholecuts

Wholecut shoes, also known as ‘One-Cut’ or ‘One-Piece’ shoes, are a refined and elegant footwear option. What sets them apart is their seamless, unblemished upper crafted from a single piece of high-quality leather. This construction showcases the craftsmanship and precision of the shoemaker, as creating a wholecut requires skillful cutting and minimal stitching.

  • Constructed as either one whole piece of leather or two sections including galosh and apron. Both constructions have a strap
  • Fitting of the last is key around two main points – the Heel and the Joint (widest part of the shoe)
  • Variations: Penny (short strap stitched with a cut-out), Saddle (long strap stitched with a cut-out), Tassel, Unlined/Lined, Split Toe, Wing Cap, Long Wing, Butted / Hand Pulled Up Apron

Material

GUIDE

At Wilfred Frazer, we place great importance on the sourcing of the most critical element in our high-quality English footwear – Leather.

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